Buffavento Castle

Buffavento Castle Cyprus Usefull Information

The road goes as near as possible to the castle, stopping at a circular parking place surrounding an olive tree. From here a steep footpath leads to the castle. Not for nothing is 'zigzag' a word in common usage in Cyprus. Care has been taken to keep the way clear of rock falls (which are apt to occur after heavy rain), to fix loose steps with cement and to provide metal handrails so that there is no danger, though the climb is a strenuous one, and may take the best part of an hour. But with every upward step the outlook becomes better and better, rivalling that of the eagles which are common birds in these peaks. A good breather may be taken three quarters of the way up, where a ridge between two heights reveals the very green tree clad northern slope of the mountains, and the sea displayed far below like an enormous disc. (Plans are under discussion for continuing the road to a higher level.) As well as being the highest (3,131 ft), Buffavento is perhaps the strangest and most evocative of the three castles of the North Cyprus Kyrenia mountains, probably because it is less frequented and less organized for tourism. In medieval chronicles this was called the Castle of the Lion, and later referred to locally as the House of a Hundred and One Houses (probably meaning 'rooms') in line with the legend common to all three castles, to the effect that anyone who discovers the hundred-and-first room will disappear into a garden paradise. But probably its present name of Buffavento suits the castle best, on account of its vulnerability to wind from all four quarters.

Apart from legend, the first references to Buffavento date back to 1191, when after his marriage to Berengaria, Richard Coeur de Lion set about conquering the whole island. The daughter of Isaac Comnenus, the despot of Cyprus (1184-91) whom he had defeated outside Limassol, abased himself to Richard's deputy, Guy de Lusignan, and delivered her own person and the fortress to the English king's mercy while her father had fled to Buffavento Castle. Later the megalomaniac Peter I of Cyprus, 1359-69, believing that his wife, Queen Eleanor of Aragon, had been slandered, shut up his friend Sir John Visconti in Buffavento, and allowed him to die of starvation there. During the reign of Jacques I (1382-98) one of two brothers who were political prisoners made a spectacular escape down the northern precipices, but was recaptured, tortured and executed. These northern precipices bear examination in the light of a moonlight escape. Throughout most of its history, Buffavento seems to have been used less as a residence than as a political prison and torture chamber. The Venetian conquerors of the island decided that they had insufficient men to garrison it, and they deliberately 'slighted' it by removing many of the roofs and all of the armaments.

Partly due to this, there are no features of architectural interest remaining, nor much indication of period except for a small amount of Byzantine brickwork such as might in fact have been carried out in a succeeding century. The ruins are fairly extensive within the limitations of a mountain top and are in such a state of disorder that only a few of the rooms (nothing like 101) can be traced. The site, and the feeling of cruel and unhappy history, are what make the greatest impression.

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